Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its essence: an profound love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on countless corners, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known gems that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to discover these narratives and travel to the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
